Sony DR-BTN200 and Bluetooth audio.

Recently I had a chance to spend some time with a Bluetooth audio headset from Sony. The model number of these are DR-BTN200. I’ve been meaning to write a review on these for over a couple months now. Now that I have had some exposure with these on the go, I’m ready to discuss them.


First I’d like to say I was and still am not a fan of Bluetooth technology for Audio. I was always under the impression that it is slow and susceptible to interference. And after being exposed to these headphones, and other Bluetooth devices in the past my impressions were 100% spot on and I stick to my original assessment of the technology.

My first exposure to Bluetooth tech was in the form of those terribly tacky phone headsets some people love to wear, you know who you are. The guy in a suit on the train yapping during the afternoon commute… but I degress. Bluetooth 1.0, in it’s day was slow and very interference prone. Troublesome to pair and even a bigger pain to maintain said pairing.


Then came the PS3 with their Bluetooth controller technology. I’m a gamer, I have been for a long time. When I first picked up the PS3 controller and tried to play NHL hockey I noticed a slight, very minute lag or delay between input and reaction time. This was unacceptable to me, and I never played another video game on the PS3 again. It sat there collecting dust.


Then I got a hand me down Bluetooth capable LG sound bar, with a wireless Sub (ewwww) and Blutooth (BT) pairing capability. The LG soundbar is the NB3530A model. I wasn’t a huge fan of the wireless Subwoofer, but the price was right and my buddy gave this to me for a steal. I set this up with my secondary TV and paired my phone using BT. After giving it a listen to some of my music, to my amazement it sounded good. In fact it sounded well enough to me, that when my 5th pair of corded headphones tore at the jack, this was a fifth pair with in one year, I started looking at BT alternatives.


Insert the Sony DR-BTN200. This was an impulse buy one afternoon when I was in Walmart looking at their Video Games section. I was hesitant, but what sold me was that on the box they had the Xperia Z1, which I am currently using, so I thought that they might pair nicely together. “DAMN YOU blatant advertising, you win this round!”


After I got them home I took them for a spin. They are on ear headphones, vs in ear and over ear, and quite comfortable. They are light weight and very comfortable even after hours of usage. Note that you have to position them just right, and place them correctly on your ears otherwise they will hurt your ears. What that position is, well it’s really based on how big and the shape of your ears. Everyone is just a little different and you’ll need to play around with the positioning and the headband length to get it just right.

Sound quality is really good, bass reproduction as well. In the sound department Sony did a really good job balancing everything just right. The bass is sufficient, you have to remember that these are wireless headphones and adding more bass would cut the battery life significantly. So if you don’t like that perhaps those overpriced and under performing Beats by Dr. Dre are your thing. In the end the sound in these is really nice, and the mids are very distinguishable. I mention the mids because most headphones, as the mentioned brand in a previous sentence, have trouble achieving this feat.

The construction is mostly plastic, with leather ear pads. The heaphones themselves are light and fairly sturdy. They have a micro USB port for charging and in the package Sony includes a very short Micro USB cable. It takes up to 4 hours to fully charge the headset and that will give you about 40 hours of listening time, and 800 hours of stand by time. Battery life is extremely good on these, I can attest to that.

Feature packed, yup. NFC instant pairing, tap you NFC enabled device to your headphones and it will immediately pair the device and headphones. You don’t need to put in a code to pair, just tap, even if you’ve never paired the two devices before. NFC can be turned off with a flick of a switch, but since NFC is a passive technology I don’t see why you would want to unless you don’t have an NFC enabled phone, I’m thinking of iPhone users here. Also to note that these use Bluetooth version 3.0, so that is the minimum requirement for device pairing.


Obviously these have a built in microphone, with a call button. You are able to pick up and make calls easily on the go with just a press of a button.


Play/Pause, FFW and RWD. It’s a nifty slider button that can be pushed in. Pushing the slider in plays or pauses the track. Sliding the protruding knob up fast forwards the track and sliding down rewinds it. Right above this is a flush power button, by holding it for a few seconds the headphones chime and turn off. Above the power button is the volume rocker. All of these are easily accessible even with winter gloves on.


At the time of this writing these can be found on Amazon for $80 CAD. This is by no means a premium headset, but for the price and sound quality good value.

So far so good, we have good construction, great sound, affordable and feature packed. Sounds like a winner to me, right? Well not so fast.

There is a slight problem with these, and this is more of a basic fundamental flaw with Bluetooth. In a controlled environment where you’re mostly static and you move around very little, these are great, and the connection/pairing between source and destination works really well. Once you start travelling outside, be it the morning commute or a walk to the corner store, this is another story. Since BT is very easily susceptible to interference as it operates on the 2.4 Ghz frequency, power lines and interference in general becomes an issue. On my daily commute when I travel under power lines, I noticed that the headset cuts out and the audio stream gets interrupted. This happens when my phone is in my front jean pocket so there are very few layers and distance between the two devices. Another issue I noticed is that when I have the phone in my left pocket and turn my head completely to the right the audio also cuts out, sans power line. These are rated for 10m so distance is not an issue.

Do the cons outweigh the pros? I don’t know… I’m really torn and conflicted between the good sound and the interference these experience. Perhaps other manufacturers tackle the issue of interference a little differently than Sony. For now I have these, in the new year I’ll be testing other options, but in the end I think I might go back to wired if the Bluetooth doesn’t hold up to my standard.

Fix your dead or noisy video card fan.

Recently I had the opportunity to take apart and fix a pair of AMD HD 5870 reference cards. I didn’t have to take them both apart, and I only needed to fix a noisy fan on one of them. A noisy fan is usually due to the grease or oil drying out in the ball bearing chamber of the card. This card gave me a good 4 years of service before it started making noise. Although after fixing the fan of one the cards, I noticed how quiet it got and that it’s temperatures and fan speed were lower than before. So I decided to do the same to the second card.

I’d say that a pair of these cards, provided you have at least 16GB of RAM in your computer, is still relevant in the PC gaming space. Why 16 GB of RAM, well these come only equipped with 1GB or DDR5 memory or VRAM, and that is not enough to get to Ultra settings on most games, so instead on certain software the system will use your computers RAM to fill what it cant fit in the VRAM in short. Note that RAM is much slower than VRAM and there may be some frame drops going this route. So two of these are capable of achieving the Ultra definition setting in most games @ 1920 x 1080 resolution and 60 frames per second. So I decided to ship these two cards to a buddy of mine, but first I had to lube them up

Here is what a reference 5870 from AMD looks like. All AMD reference cards are built in a similar fashion and this process is applicable to them.

 SAPPHIRE HD 5870 1GB GDDR5 PCIE (Game Edition)


Here are the materials that were used to tune up the cards, jewellers screwdriver set, a pair of pliers, thermal paste, a mixture of water, vinegar, and lime juice, alcohol works as well and so does cologne as it’s alcohol based, and 3 in 1 all purpose oil. Optionally a can of air might help to get the dust out of the fan and heat sink fins.

If you want to test your cards temperatures and fan speed prior to this, install Furmark, it will allow you to stress test the card (Burn-in) and capture the metrics. So for the 5870 as for many of the reference cards flip it over to the fan opening is facing down and remove the marked screws. The ones in red are a different size than the ones in green. There are also two screws on the port face.

Once you’ve removed the screws, and lifted the back plate and the bracket in the middle carefully separate the PCB from the heat sink and fan assembly. Slowly and with care start prying the PCB from the fan and sink assembly at the sides, closest to the port plate. Keep prying with your fingers while moving towards the other end. Be careful not to separate the PCB from the assembly with too much force as on the other end the fan is connected to the PCB and you don’t want to rip out the connector.

Note that the only thing holding the PCB to the heat sink assembly is the dried thermal paste. It should not take a lot of force to pry it away, but you should still take great heed and care while doing this as not to damage any of the transistors or resistors, etc. Otherwise you’ll need to bust out the soldering iron. Also be careful pulling the PCB apart because on the opposite side to the port plate is the fan connector, you should pry the PCB about a centimetre away from the assembly then fold it open as seen in the image above, so you can detach the connector from the PCB. You should rest the PCB on a non static towel or mat after this. Be careful with the thermal stickers on the cooling unit, unless you have spares make sure you keep them in tact.

Next we’re going to take apart the fan and heat sink assembly so we can clean it and lube the fan. Remove the screws circled in red, at this point you may also want to remove the screws circled in green, those belong to the fan. Note that if you do remove the ones marked in green, be careful removing the plastic housing and make sure the fan doesn’t go flying out.



See that circular sticker on the bottom side of the fan, usually underneath it is an opening and access to the bearing chamber. With normal fans you should be able to heat it up with a blow dryer and peel it back to expose the opening and be able to put in 3-5 drops of all purpose oil. Well it’s not the case with these reference cards, these have that part sealed off. Our only option it to pop the motor out and put the oil in through the top. In order to do that you need to wedge in 3 screwdrivers between the corners of the triangular plastic piece that is attached to the motor and the fan. It should be a snug fit. Once you have done so apply equal downward pressure on the ends of all 3 screwdrivers, and once you hear a loud pop, stop. Now lift and remove the motor from the fan. Now you can add 3-5 drops of all purpose oil into the bearing chamber, try to only get it in the chamber. Once you have done so, push the motor and fan back together until you hear a snap. Spin the fan while holding the motor for a minute or two so that the oil circulates in the chamber.

Below is a video demonstrating the removal and separation process of the motor from the fan.


The oiling of the bearings and removal of the dust, made a huge difference in both cards. I was able to knock off about 4 degrees in temperature and 4% in fan speed in both. Also to note one of the cards started running silently again.

Happy gaming!

UPDATE 2016/03/09: I have since used this method a couple times. I bought an R9 290X off eBay and 2 out of 3 fans wouldn’t spin. Using the above method I brought them back to life and have been using the card for over a year without hiccups.

Xen Hypervisor and unRAID server 6

For those of you that have home servers or are considering one, this might be of a little interest to you. Have a look at this quick post first.

First let me talk about Unraid server. Unraid server is a storage server used for media, documents and whatever else you need storage for. It’s essentially a NAS device/server. Disk access is fairly fast and generally faster than most RAID setups. Just like it’s name implies it does not use a RAID array/setup, instead it opts for an array of independently functioning drives with a parity disk. Each drive stores file data that spans only that particular drive. There are several ways that you can fill a drive up with data. When you read or write a file it does not span multiple disks. Check the gallery examples below to see the difference between a RAID5 and unRAID setup.

Images taken from Lime Tech website

What does that mean. Well for starters, unlike a RAID array if more than one drive fail you will not loose all your information. If one drive fails, with the assistance of the parity drive, much like a RAID setup you can still rebuild the information on said failed drive. If more than one drive fails however, for examples sake, if the parity drive and a single storage drive fail, you will only loose the information that was stored on said storage drive that failed. Parity holds no data only a checksum of bits from each drive in the array. Unraid can function without a parity drive. Unraid is also expandable and you can grow your array slowly over time. If you only need a 4 drive array with future expandability that’s fine, you can grow your storage pool up to 24 drives at a later date. You can increment your storage size as you please. Unraid is very flexible.


Unraid v5 has a repository of plugins. Plugins are applications which can be installed and configured to run on the server. Much like most NAS devices available on the market today, applications such as CrashPlan, BTsync, SabNZBD, Couch Potato, Headphones, Sick Bears, and many more can be installed in the unRAID5 environment. Give the software a go, it’s free to try and you don’t need a license for the basic version. Here is the link: . The software runs off a flash drive and is accessed via a webpage interface.

So how does unRAID benefit from the Xen hypervisor? At the moment some community plugins for version 5 of unRAID are compiled with different versions of python, 2.6 and 2.7 respectively. Now if you install two of these plugins that have the varying versions of python they will conflict in the same environment. However, if you separate them in to different virtual machines this will not cause any issues. With unRAID6 one does not have to wait for a plugin to be created for the unRAID environment which is based on the slackware 14 linux distribution. Install a linux distribution of your choice or Windows if you’d like, and install the software of your choosing. Another benefit is memory allocation, it has been noted in some posts that PlexServer on unRAID does not have the best memory management around and is quite RAM hungry, sometimes crashing other applications in unRAID. With Xen that is no longer and issue, software will only crash anything inside the VM and the memory space that is allocated to it, anything outside of that VM will be untouched. It all comes down to stability and isolation.

Currently I am running Unraid Server 5.0.4 final. Over the last couple weeks I have put in a lot of research into Unraid6 with the Xen hypervisor, in the hopes of moving to the newer version. In my opinion the Xen hypervisor of Unraid 6 is the bread and butter of the new OS version. What is a Hypervisor? A Hypervisor or virtual machine monitor (VMM) is a piece of computer software, firmware or hardware that creates and runs virtual machines. A virtual machine (VM) is a software-based emulation of a computer. Why is this relevant? Well for starters you can isolate services and machines. You can have a test environment. You can consolidate your hardware into one machine. You can emulate and pass through hardware and even game on a Virtual Machine with the Xen Hypervisor. That’s right, an unRAID forum memeber, ironicbadger, successfully demonstrates a Windows VM with GPU passthrogh and the ability to game inside a Virtual Machine. Unfortunately it is not capable of multi GPU support yet.

At the moment in my home I have an unRAID5 server, a gaming PC, an HTPC, and a raspberry PI for indexing the SQL database used by XBMC. That’s 4 physical devices that could theoretically be consolidated into one piece of hardware through the use of hardware pass through and VMs. Mind you I would never emulate the Gaming PC as it is a beast, and I’m running eyefinity on it. However the potential is there. In order for hardware pass through to be possible your motherboard needs to be equipped with an input/output memory management unit or IOMMU. Essentially the motherboard chipset must support VT-d or AMD-Vi, also you need a CPU capable of handling the VT-x and AMD-V instruction sets.

The unRAID community is using Arch Linux for it’s VMs. Arch is a very minimal and light weight operating system, it can be run on one CPU and 512MB or RAM with some light applications in the background if desired. I also found that the Arch distribution has really amazing documentation and a very large community of contributors. If you want more reading on Arch go to ironicbadgers blog, he loves his Arch distribution, and no one can fault him for it, it’s a rock solid distro.

There are two types of methods of virtualizing, PV and HVM. PV or a para virtualization does not require VT-x and AMD-V CPU hardware extensions and runs completely within a software driven environment. HVM or hardware assisted virtualization requires your CPU to be capable of the VT-x and AMD-V extensions. On top of this if you want to pass through any I/O hardware to the VM, like a VGA card or a PCi device, your motherboard needs to support IOMMU and have a chipset capable of the VT-d or AMD-Vi instruction set.

So if you’d like to learn some more about unRAID6 and Xen, head over to the Lime Tech website or the forums. Enjoy.

Information Technology, it ain’t easy, but it sure is rewarding.

Let’s face it, Information Technology is all about disassembling information and interpreting it into real world solutions and sometimes problems. It is a job in which you are constantly evolving your knowledge and problem solving is your number one asset, well, that and support contracts.


This week I learned a valuable lesson, LTO tapes are only good for 50 uses and that’s best case scenario and in optimal conditions. They also should be stored on their side, not laying flat, and should not be transported in a backpack, hand bag, purse, or European carry all, vibrations damage these things. A bad tape will break your LTO5 drive. In the last 2 weeks both my Tape Library drives died due to bad tapes. When I tried to look for some detailed information about the life expectancy of an LTO tape I found some arbitrary metrics about how many times a tape can be loaded but that’s about it. Speaking to the Dell representative he shone some light on this matter and I was able to get some concrete information as per above. He also told me that I can open up the drive and remove the bad tape without voiding my warranty. I liked that it meant I get to tinker with a new piece of hardware . Brought me back to my youth when my brother handed me his broken walkman, “If you can fix it, it’s yours”. At 9 years old armed with a screw driver and determination I tinkered with that thing for hours. I had to remember where each screw went and what part it belonged to. I never fixed that walkman, but I did identify the problem. I got a lot of joy from taking electronics apart at a young age, even the ones that weren’t broken.

Here is what the LTO5 Half Height tape drive looks like from the inside.

Either way the whole ordeal wasn’t a very pleasant experience. Two weeks without any backups is quite stressful. During this time I really wanted to drive the tape library out to the field and go office space on its ass. I joke about it now but it’s funny how when things break it’s never anything simple. #itguyproblems

KBtalKing v1.1 PRO Mechanical Wireless Keyboard.

I’ve been looking for a wireless gaming keyboard for a while. Specifically a mechanical wireless gaming keyboard. To tell you the truth, there aren’t many out there. Actually I think there are only a couple of companies in the wireless mechanical keyboard business.

After some digging I was able to find a product by KBtalKing. The only thing I was worried about is the fact that it uses Bluetooth as a method of communicating. It uses Bluetooth (BT) 3.0, but in general BT communication is a bit laggy and slow. It is not ideal for gaming where milliseconds matter and can mean the difference between fragging or being fragged. I decided to take the plunge and purchase it anyways. This keyboard can connect up to 10 BT devices including PS3, Android, and iOS devices. Or be connected via a USB cable to a PC.

Both wireless receivers for the mouse and keyboard were connected to a powered USB hub, which is connected to a 85 foot USB 2.0 cable that runs from my living room to my bedroom where my gaming rig is located. Both the keyboard and mouse were about 7-10 feet away from the wireless receivers. The keyboard is rated for bluetooth 3.0 and was connected to a Broadcom bluetooth 4 dongle. The manufacturer recommends Broadcom bluetooth devices as they find they work best with their hardware.

As for the keyboard itself it is Black on Black keycaps with MX cherry red mechanical switches. It comes with extra key caps to replace the windows or command button, and a key cap puller. The red mechanical switches are very sensitive, especially for my big heavy hands. Resting my fingers on the keys of this keyboard is not an option, the slightest touch and the key press is reproduced on screen. It took me a couple days to get used to the sensitivity of the mx cherry reds, but now this is a non issue. I like the key cap remover, I use it all the time to remove the console key for BF3, the #5 key, and the ‘f’ key. I have a very big problem pressing the console key in BF3, where I press it and then I’m stuck not being able to move with the keyboard. This generally happens when I try to select weapon slot 1. With the key cap remover it takes me 2 seconds to pull the key, this way I don’t accidentally press it.

These are plate mounted switches so they can be swapped out if one should so desire.

After setting my TV to GAME mode to minimize input lag I set out to test the wireless keyboard performance, the session was accompanied by a Logitech G700 wireless mouse.

By default I was expecting some lag, the reason being is that my Gaming PC is in my bedroom and I have it connected to my HT in the living room via a HDBaseT device and a 85’ long USB 2.0 cable. With all the cabling running this long distance I expected input lag, and a game like Battlefield 3 to be unplayable.

However to my surprise this was not the case. Not only was the keyboard responsive, the game was playable, very playable. I gamed for several hours with this keyboard in my living room. Not only that, the keyboard was so responsive my game was taken up a notch. I found that it responded very well to my key presses, it was livelier, and a day and night comparison to my G510 rubber dome keyboard. With 6 key rollover, being mechanical and bluetooth 3.0 this keyboard did not miss a beat. In fact it performed well over my expectations.

I even tested the keyboard distance with the Bluetooth dongle I had bought, I got about 12 feet before the signal started breaking up, to the keyboards defence it was through a couple walls.

I’ve never been a fan of wireless keyboards and mice due to the input lag from wireless technologies. Well this is no longer the case, KBtalKing PRO in wireless mode performed very well, gaming grade well. They sell what they advertise. I had a nerdgasm using this keyboard, which was well worth the price that I paid.

I was playing last night and the Health fitness timer went off, which means I was in the middle of a BF3 gun fight and I lost the ability to move. I do not recall setting this and it took me a minute to realize what had happened. It’s a little weak on the indicator for these functions.

Also the keyboard came with a silly calendar which one assembles out of the instruction manual. Totally random.

Keyboard Specifications:

Number of Keys: US 108 Keys (ANSI)

Keyboard Color: Black

Keyboard Type: Mechanical – Using top quality Cherry MX Red keyswitches. Cherry MX Blue (clickier/louder) also available. Cherry MX switches are tested at more than 50 million strike life cycle.


  • Standard – Laser Etched White Characters on Black ABS Plastic (UV Coated)
  • Black on Black – Laser Engraved Black Characters on Black ABS Plastic (UV Coated)All keyboards come with Mac compatible keycaps (4 pcs – command x2, alt/option x2).

Hotkeys: 27 (See full list of explanations on proprietary hotkeys and functions)

Anti-ghosting/N-Key Rollover: 6-key simultaneous input without ANY conflict/interference (Tested in both USB & Bluetooth mode Any key combinations).

Wired Interface: USB (Detachable cord)

Wireless Interface: Bluetooth 3.0 (Pairs and saves up to 10 devices)

Exclusive Technology: Multi-Pairing Bluetooth (10 devices) with switchable USB connection

Compatible Bluetooth Devices: Google Android 3/4 devices, and Apple iOS 4/5/6 (iPhones, iPads, etc.), Playstation 3

Compatible Computers: Windows XP / Vista   / Win7  / Win 8 / MAC OS 10 or higher

Batteries: AA x 2 pcs (not included)

Battery life: Approximately 1000+ hours. (3 hours/day x 365 days)

Accessories Included:   User Manual, USB Cable, Mobile device stand, keycaps for Mac (4pcs), keycap puller

This manufacturer tutorial page has all the details about the device and the OS specific function keys. Check it out…

In conclusion, this is a gaming grade mechanical keyboard with wireless features able to connect up to 10 wireless devices and one wired device via USB. It kept up with my gaming needs with great wireless Bluetooth 3.0 performance.

As a side Note, I had a problem with Windows 7 and using the keyboard. Pressing the Capslock button would kick a game out of full screen mode. I tracked the problem down to BTTray.exe (the Bluetooth dongle), the on screen indicator for the keys being engaged and disengaged would kick the game out of full screen as it would render a visual notification on the desktop. This feature can be disabled via a registry edit.

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE > SOFTWARE > Widcomm > BTConfig > General > KeyIndication

Change the value of “KeyIndication” from “1″ to “0″


Problem fixed. This will only be an issue if there is a BT device connected to the PC. I use both wired and wireless on my PC.

Thanks for reading.


I recently got my hands on an HDBase-T device.


HDBaseT supported by the HDBaseT Alliance, is a consumer electronic (CE) connectivity technology for transmission of uncompressed high-definition video (HD), audio, power, home networking, and some control signals, over a common cable with a standard connector.


In this instance it is a single device which passes an HDMI signal over cat5e (Network Cable) up to 100 meters or 320 feet. Generally devices such as these go for about $200 – $500. So you can imagine how sceptical I was when I saw this nGear branded one for $140 CDN.

There were alternatives out there on Amazon for a lot cheaper, but they weren’t HDBase-T. Which means limited support, and it will not support 3D or DTS 7.1.

What do you get in the package? You get an input and output terminator, you get two power adapters for the terminators, and you get two IR transmitters/receivers. The IR transmitter/receivers are able to pass your remotes signal over the cat5 cable to your connected device.

Initially when I got this device I was worried about the connectivity, I could not get it to work. Then I decided to crimp a new cable. With the new cable in place I was able to watch a 3D movie in 5.1 surround from my PS3 in my bedroom on my home theatre in the living room.

This is not what I intended the device for. I wanted this for my Gaming PC which sits in the bedroom. Now I play my PC games with a controller in the Living room.



Additionally to the HDBase-T device I had to get a super long USB 2.0 cable which also runs from the gaming PC to the living room. I have connected a USB hub to this cable and a MS Wireless controller adapter so I can play games with my 360 controller. Sports and adventure games. When it comes to first person shooters I play it at my desk on my 3 monitors, mouse, and keyboard. I have both options available.

Switching between the 3 monitors and the Living room is easy, with AMDs Catalyst profiles I either press Ctrl+Alt+F4 (Desk) or Ctrl+Alt+F5 (Living Room). You can set this up yourself with any key combination you desire. Here’s a little visual guide someone put together.

So that was part of the battle the next challenge came in when I was in the living room I could not start and close applications with my controller, I would have to go to the bedroom unplug the mouse and bring it into the living room. That kind of defeated the purpose of the entire convenience. This is where Xpadder came in. Xpadder alows me to setup my controller and map mouse movements and clicks to buttons and joysticks on the controller. I mapped the mouse to my right analog stick and left click to my right trigger. It was a safe bet that it would no interfere with any controls in games. If you play any games the right stick always translates to mouse movements and right trigger always translates to left mouse click on the PC. I was right it really doesn’t interfere much, having payed Tomb Raider and Fifa 12 on the big screen it works pretty well. Now you can download Xpadder from the official site with a donation, or you can find it for free on other sites. Up to you.

At one point the GF saw me playing Tomb Raider on the bis screen, and she was amazed at how realistic the graphics were “movie like” was her comment. I chuckled, because it totally justified my purchase and it reminded me of this.


As far as lag goes in gaming, there isn’t any that I have noticed. It works very well and I’m happy with it. My next purchase might be a blue-tooth wireless mechanical keyboard to put in the living room that can connect to 9 different devices.

So there you have it HDBase-T by nGear is a very solid and reliable device. I played through Tomb Raider on it and it hasn’t given me any trouble. I supports up to HDMI 1.4 but without ARC support.

I give it a 9 out of 10.

Here is a quick spec sheet:

HDMI version ———————————————    High speed with 3D support
Support HDMI resolution—————–  1080P/1080i/720P/576P/576i/480P/480i
Support video color bit ——————————————  deep color 24bit/36bit
Support audio format———————————   LPCM/Dolby-AC3/DTS7.1/DSD
Input Video signal ————————————————————- 5.0Volts P-P
Output cable distance—————————————————————-  <=5m
Input cable distance——————————————————————- <=5m
Data transfer speed———————————————–  6.75Gbps-10.2Gbps
Operating Humidity range————————–   5 to 90%RH (No Condensation)
Operating Temperature range————————–    -15 to +55C° (5 to 131°F)
Power adapter format——————————-  Input AC(50Hz.60Hz) 100- 240V
Power  Supply———————————————————————–   DC 5V